WHERE there are lines, there are always questions. So it was that one witness to the commotion outside the newest Angelo Pietro restaurant in Kapahulu wanted to know what I thought of Pietro's in general. Things are looking
up at Pietro’sMy answer was "Not much." I told him about my only visit to the Kapiolani Pietro's two years ago. I talked about flat, watery sauces, the Japan chain's not-ready-for-America tuna, corn and natto toppings, and I prattled on about cultural chasms between Italy, America and Japan.
After about 10 minutes of ranting, clearly stating my "been-there-done-that-never-wanna-do-it-again" position, the caller concluded with a "Good. I can't wait to read all about it." What could I do? I felt obligated to check it out, and it's a good thing I did because the menu has improved substantially. I respect the restaurant's staff for taking time to learn just what we want, and delivering. Flavors are more intense, passionate, dramatic.
The takana (mustard cabbage), natto (fermented soybeans), tarako (salted cod fish eggs) and tuna are now relegated to a small portion of the menu. These days Pietro's is better known for pasta Genovese ($10.25), its pesto-stirred pasta with bacon, broccoli, mushrooms and a small dice of eggplant and potato; and clam peperoncini ($11.25), with fresh clams and squid poached in white wine and served with spaghetti noodles stirred into a zippy chile-spiked soy and garlic sauce. The soy sauce adds flavor without overpowering the dish.
Aside from 19 special pastas, the restaurant, as always, takes a mix-and-match approach to its spaghettis with sauces and toppings you choose. The "bases" are light-tasting soy, tomato or cream sauces or garlic oil. As for the toppings, you can choose from their combinations, favorites such as spinach and chicken ($8.50), shrimp and mushroom ($8.75) or sausage and mushroom ($8.25), or turn to the back page of the menu for more options.
That goes double for pizzas built for one on a snappy, thin crackery crust. Choose from cheese ($4.50), tomato ($4.95), ground beef ($6.50) or white sauce ($5.75) bases. I enjoyed the delicacy of a tomato sauce-smeared pizza topped with asparagus ($1), roasted garlic ($1), shrimp ($2) and scallops ($2).
My problem now is with service. On weekends, long waits for food are not unusual. Managers stand around, unwilling to deal with frustrated guests. I waited an hour for the first of my dishes, it was the wrong thing, and there was no offer of removing the dish from my bill or other gesture of apology. Guys, work on that next, will ya?
Angelo Pietro -- Kapahulu: 885 Kapahulu Ave. Valet parking
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. daily
Prices: About $20 to $25 for two
Call: 732-2600
Leave it to the Japanese to reinvent a bit of Americana and serve it right back to us. Angelo Pietro is just one example. Another is Mos Burger, which is starting to colonize old Burger King sites at 515 Ward Ave. and 1810 University Ave. Cheap eats!
Mos Burger prides itself on serving the "best-tasting burger" in Hawaii. I won't argue that. It's pretty tasty, especially when topped with jalapenos, secret sauce, onions and tomato ($3.09). But Mos Burger makes no claim about texture and that's where other burger sellers have them beat. Patties are a tad spongy and steak sandwich beef borders on jerky. The fries are pretty good, though.
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Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
-- excellent;
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com
