REINCARNATION is real. Old-time burger joints have vanished, felled by the marketing wizardry of McDonald's, Jack in the Box and Burger King, but their spirit lives on through Teddy's Bigger Burgers on Monsarrat. Teddy’s builds a
bigger, better burgerTeddy's claims to be "reinventing the burger joint," but really, it has just polished up a somewhat tarnished institution, selling it with a little bit of '90s 'tude -- smart, sassy and oh-so-savvy.
The menu is short and sweet. You've got your "Teddy's Original Bigger Burger" in big (5 ounces of beef, $3.75), bigger (7 ounces, $4.50) and biggest (9 ounces, $5.25) sizes. The biggest is by far the tastiest and best textured, the big being a little too smooth.
The burger itself is 100 percent ground chuck, with less than 3 percent fat, that is hand-shaped, then broiled. It's a burger born from popular backyard barbecues of partners Rich Stula and Teddy Tsakiris, who provided the recipe.
The popularity of burgers took them by surprise. Stula said, "We figured this was a healthy neighborhood and maybe they would splurge on a burger maybe once a week. But it's surprising. The same people have been coming in for lunch and dinner every day since we opened (April 15)." Diners can have a little variety every time, calling the shots on such toppings as a secret sauce, mayo, lettuce, tomato, onions and pickles. The only additions that cost extra are bacon (75 cents) and American cheese (35 cents). What? No cheddar?
Beyond the basic burger are teri and spud versions ($4.25/$5/ $5.75). The latter is a burger topped with a golden slab of hash browns. Vegetarians can opt to do away with the beef patty and have the hash brown patty with toppings. They also have daily specials. One is an burger topped with avocado.
Fries cost extra. Get 'em sprinkled with a spicy pepper or garlic salt, or slathered with gooey liquid cheese, at $1.25 to $2.25.
As if this isn't enough vice, there are also old-fashioned floats and real chocolate, peanut butter, vanilla or strawberry shakes ($2.95).
Gobble it all at soda fountain-style seats. There's room for 10.
It takes cajones to serve something as simple as burgers and fries at a price higher than most fast-food specials. But if you build a decent burger and package it with a great theme, they will come.
Teddy's Bigger Burgers: 3114 Monsarrat Ave.Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily
Prices: $4 to $10 per person
Call: 735-9411
With the economy in the dumps, we're all in the same boat financially, so every week, after continuing to keep you informed about the newest restaurants on Oahu, I'll offer a reality check in the form of a tip or two on where to find affordable grinds of reasonable quality. Cheap eats!
Reader or restaurateur input is welcome.
Last week I talked about affordable dim sum at Mei Sum, the new restaurant at Pauahi and Smith streets. But the more budget-conscious would likely head to Empress in the Chinatown Cultural Plaza (521-5055).
Empress' offerings are not as fancy as most places, but its 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily price of $1.50 per dim sum plate is about a dollar less than anywhere else. At Empress, a selection of six plates will run you $9, vs. $15 elsewhere. It all adds up. Thank me later.
See a listing of past restaurants reviewed in the
section online. Click the logo to go!
<Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
-- excellent;
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com
