SOME people have the magic touch. Keo Sananikone is one of them. While others are thinking "downsize" or "keep treading," he's moving his Kapahulu operation (last day to dine, Feb. 14) into spacious new Waikiki quarters. Newest Keo’s
keeps up with traditionThen, just as his new restaurant was about to open, a statue of a Thai dancer was stolen from the street display. After much TV coverage, the statue was found and returned. The touch of cynic in me said "great advertising." I know I was sold on the grand new location. You can't miss it. It's at the entrance to Waikiki, where Kuhio branches from Kalakaua.
I wasn't disappointed when I walked in either. The restaurant is spacious and tastefully dressed in warm-colored woods, Asian art, wicker and sea green tablecloths. Sprays of orchids abound, along with arrangements of heliconia and bird of paradise. Look up and the ceilings ducts and other inner workings remain in view, giving the space a roomy, slightly edgy appeal.
A big plus is the already trained staff who still manage to smile when teaching yet another tourist how to eat a spring roll.
Favorites from the Kapahulu menu return here. Start with the "Golden Triangle" ($7.95) an appetizer of four tiger prawns wrapped with shiitake, crisp water chestnuts, chives and spices in crispy wonton wrappers.Accessibility has always been a key to Keo's success, so curries are made extra thick and rich with creamy coconut milk to appeal to our all-American penchant for fat. The Bangkok-style panang curry is the most popular, accented with peas, ground lemongrass and slim strands of kaffir lime leaves. This can be ordered with shrimp and scallops ($11.95), seafood (shrimp, scallops plus fish and calamari, $12.95) or chicken ($10.95).
And of course, Keo's invented "Evil Jungle Prince" -- the spicy blend of coconut milk, red chiles and fresh basil with shrimp ($11.95), chicken ($10.95) or tofu and vegetables ($9.95) -- which is now a must for every local Thai restaurant.
On the down side, I didn't care for the soggy roast duck salad ($9.95), saturated with chile and lime dressing. And the crushed peanuts provided as garnish were stale. Otherwise, there's not much to complain about, unless you happen to like and live next door to the old Keo's.
Keo's in Waikiki: Ambassador Hotel, 2040 Kuhio Ave.; valet parking
Hours: 5 to 10:30 p.m. daily; lunch service due in about two weeks
Prices: About $35 to $40 for two without drinks
Call: 943-1444While I'm talking about familiar restaurants that are new again, Tony Roma's has been given a warm welcome by East Honolulu diners. When last mentioned in August, the restaurant had been closed due to a fire. Ribs, ribs, ribs
The reconstructed Tony Roma's retains the footprint of the old one, but the furnishing is new -- albeit still of the drab family-style variety -- and the dining room has been brightened.
Half a year was a long wait for the return of the original baby backs ($13.74 regular; $15.74 for full slab); spicy "Red Hots," spareribs marinated with a five-pepper hot sauce ($12.74/$14.74); molasses- and honey-basted "Carolina Honeys" spareribs ($12.74/ $14.74); and "Bountiful Beef" ribs ($11.74/ $14.74). There's also the usual array of fries, onion loaves ($3.29 half/$4.29 full), salads and desserts of over-sized cookies and brownies topped with ice cream.
But Tony Roma's is a place for ribs after all, and you don't want to get sidetracked.
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com-- excellent;
