CHEF Harris Brazina makes no apologies for what he eats, which these days is whatever he wants, even junk food. But you're not likely to catch this perfectionist putting anything bad into his dishes at Well Bento, where he and his wife Miyuki are making an art out of putting "plant-based organic plate lunches" on the table. 'Plant-based' meals pack great flavor
Brazina steers clear of words like "macrobiotic," "vegetarian," or "vegan," in favor of foods that match his own philosophies of food and life. This means gourmet organic fare to go that is beautiful to look at and gentle on the body. It's food free of chemicals, additives and preservatives, and made without eggs, refined sugar or dairy products.
The chef brings to the table all the skills gleaned from working natural food and haute kitchens in New York, and few hang-ups from 10 years spent living and breathing the macrobiotic way, which strives for balance in the consumption of "neutral" foods such as vegetables and grains.
"You know the comment, 'holier than the Pope?' I've seen what happens to people when they get fanatical about food. People get caught up in extremes and it's the extremes that are unhealthy," Brazina said."There are people, who for health reasons, can't eat oil or salt. I can cook for these people. But I also know people who call themselves vegetarians, and then tell me, 'Don't tell anyone I had fish.' "
Talk about being dish-onest.
"Happiness is more important than worrying about diet all the time, so now I'm not a strict anything," Brazina said. "I have transitional plates (with chicken or salmon) and I'm really happy when people order them, because that's the most balanced way of eating."
On the transitional - you can read that two ways - menu is the spicy pasta dish, chicken fra diavolo ($7.25), a favorite of Harris' 12-year-old son Philip.
Shojin salmon ($7.25) is delicately poached and topped with shiitake, bamboo shoots, ginger and scallion.
But it is the plant-based menu that is most impressive because it is so friendly to meat eaters.
BRAZINA'S take on veal scaloppine, chewy tempeh scaloppini ($6.50) won't fool anyone into thinking they're eating veal, but the fermented soybean cake has rarely tasted this good. It's dressed with white wine, lemon and mushrooms, and served on brown rice.
A pan-seared millet almond tofu croquette ($5.25) was a favorite of Jane Fonda's when Brazina worked in New York. A shot of birdseed dots these crunchy morsels. Afterward I raided my parrot's food supply, since she devours strings of millet. For once I really studied the nutrition information on the back of the package.
Other sources of protein at Well Bento are tofu and seitan, boiled wheat gluten that has the spongy but firm consistency of aburaage, or deep-fried tofu. Tofu and seitan are combined in a saucy dish of cacciatore ($6.25) served over pasta or rice.
Presentation is gorgeous. Plates are garnished with baby bok choy, carrots, gobo, a bean salad and shredded green and purple cabbage with tofu-herb dressing.
It takes awhile to put a plate together since entrees are cooked to order, so call in advance.
The Well Bento: 2570 S. Beretania St., second floorHours: 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday
Prices: About $7 per person, cash, take-out only
Call: 941-5261
Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:
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