Special to the Star-Bulletin
The decor is as ono as the food at
Maui Beach Cafe in Manhattan Beach.
A touch of Maui
on Manhattan Beach
A former Roy's chef brings
By Tim Ryan
fresh ahi poke to California
Star-BulletinHAWAII Regional Cuisine is a lot more than teriyaki sauce dribbled over fish, or pineapple slices stacked atop grilled chicken. We know that, but not many mainland chefs do. So it's nothing short of miraculous to discover a mainland restaurant that takes the best in Pacific cuisine -- a la Roy's, Sam Choy and A Pacific Cafe -- then adds its own special touches.
Maui Beach Cafe, at 1129 Manhattan Ave. in Manhattan Beach, brings the spirit and flavors of Hawaii to southern California, largely due to chef Mako Segawa Gonzales, former executive chef at Roy's Restaurant.
The 55-seat Maui Beach Cafe sports contemporary island decor, with hand-painted ferns and palms on the walls, colorful tables and chairs, a television featuring videos of the Valley Isle, and the choice of eating indoors, where cooks can be seen at work in the open-air kitchen, or outside, where diners can watch the beach community parade by.
OK, the decor is ono, but how does the food match up?
Big Island-born Gonzales takes pride in his recipes and representations of this Euro-Asian inspired cuisine.
"I choose entrees using fish and produce you can find in Hawaii," Gonzales said. "Fish that are popular in the islands."
When's the last time you found opah or ono on a mainland menu, roasted rack of lamb basted in Kona coffee or crispy coconut chicken with pineapple salsa?
Appetizers include fish tacos, charred ahi sashimi with wasabi nori sauce, shrimp and barbecued pork spring rolls with mango lemongrass sauce, and tea-smoked duck pot stickers with lilikoi sweet-and-sour sauce. Standouts are the Hawaiian-style ahi poke with crispy ogo, chili pepper water on sesame rice cakes, and the Maui Beach lettuce wraps with chili-sesame chicken, Mongolian-style steak or fresh Thai curry seafood.
Gonzales gets his fresh fish from nearby Santa Monica Seafood, and island produce, such as Maui onions, from L.A. Specialties.
Fish dinner entrees range in price from $13.50 to $17.95; chicken and meat, $13.50 to $18.50; and pastas, $7.95 to $12.50. Lunch and dinner is served Friday through Sunday; dinner only Monday through Thursday.
Next time you're in L.A. and you miss Hawaii-kine grinds, remember you can eat, drink and be Maui at the Maui Beach Cafe. For reservations call (310)-546-2977.
Gonzales is also set to open a new 150-seat restaurant at 1019 Westwood Blvd. Nov. 6. Alan Wong will be the guest chef.
Meanwhile, sample some of the cafe grinds at home:
Fresh Island Fish Tacos with
Asian Slaw and Thai-style Mayonnaise8 ounces fresh ono or mahimahi filletCut fish fillet into four 2-ounce strips. In a shallow dish, combine the lime juice, garlic and cilantro and add fish strips, coating with marinade. Cover and let marinade 10-15 minutes in the refrigerator.
Juice of one lime
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon chopped cilantro
Peanut oil
1/2 cup flour
Salt to taste
Freshly ground pepper to taste
4 corn tortillas
Lime wedges, to garnish
Thai-style mayonnaise
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon chili garlic paste
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
2 kaffir lime leaves, finely minced
2 cups shredded napa cabbage
1 cup shredded red cabbage
1 cup shredded carrots
1 bunch green onions, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon red pickled ginger
1/2 tomato, diced
1/2 cup pineapple juice
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
1/4 cup sesame oil
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 tablespoon chopped (peeled) fresh ginger
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon black sesame seedsPour enough oil into a medium frying pan to come 1/2-inch up the sides of the pan. Heat to medium-high temperature. Dredge fish in flour and shake excess flour off. Carefully place in hot oil and cook on all sides until golden brown on the outside and opaque inside, about 3-5 minutes. Transfer the fish to a paper towel-lined plate to drain excess oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
For mayonnaise: In a small bowl, combine all ingredients. Cover and refrigerate for a few hours before using, so flavors may develop.
For Asian slaw and dressing: In a large bowl, toss together the Asian slaw ingredients. In a medium bowl, combine the dressing ingredients. Pour the dressing over the slaw and toss well. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
To serve: Warm tortillas. Place each fish strip in the middle of a tortilla. Top with about 2 tablespoons Thai-style Mayonnaise. Cover with about 1/2 to 3/4 cup Asian slaw. Garnish with lime wedge. If desired, serve remaining Asian slaw on the side. Makes 4 tacos.
Rosemary Grilled Opah with
Roasted Red Pepper Balsamic Coulis2 six-ounce opah (moonfish) filletsIn a small bowl, mix together the olive oil, rosemary, garlic and salt and pepper to taste. Place the fish fillets in a shallow dish and spoon marinade over the fish. Let marinade for three minutes.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
1/2 teaspoon minced garlic
Salt to taste
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Rosemary sprigs, to garnish
1 red bell pepper
1 shallot (peeled), or 1 tablespoon minced Maui onion
6 garlic cloves (peeled)
1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley
1-1/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1-1/2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground pepper to tasteMeanwhile, preheat the grill or a broiler to medium high and cook until the fish turns opaque and flakes easily when tested with a skewer or fork at its thickest part, about 5 to 7 minutes.
For the coulis: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Wrap the red bell pepper, shallot and garlic cloves in aluminum foil to make a sealed packet. Roast in the oven for 30 minutes.
Transfer cooked vegetables to a blender or food processor fitted with a steel blade. Add remaining coulis ingredients. Puree until smooth.
To serve, drizzle fish with Red Pepper Coulis and garnish each plate with a fresh rosemary sprig. Serve with grilled vegetables and rice or potatoes. (Maui Beach Cafe serves it with roasted Maui onion mashed potatoes.)
Serves 2.
