A spring roll needs no introduction. Or so I thought. After examining virtually every different type of spring roll available in Honolulu - extolling their virtues, weighing their relative merits, analyzing them from squishy or succulent innards to crisp or chewy outer shell - I sort of assumed everyone knows about these Asian appetizers by now. Taste the new, but
don't be a Butt-headBut then I walked into the Green Papaya Cafe and overheard people at one table ask, "What's a spring roll?"
This in itself isn't too discouraging. At least they were making an attempt to broaden their culinary horizons. But then, this group started reading further down the menu and snickering, as in, "Look, beef balls, heh-heh, heh, heh."
Are we talking Beavis and Butt-head at the dinner table or what? Now, don't get me wrong, I love Beavis and Butt-head. Probably because I knew them in real life, having all too recently lived for a year with two teens who were the living incarnations of the cartoon anti-heroes. The Beavis and Butt-head I knew proceeded to get fired from every fast-food joint in Kailua, and were hilarious in the way that muddled youths are.
But the diners mentioned above were well past the age of culinary innocence.
Of course you, my sophisticated reader, know better. Thus I refuse to talk about the spring rolls, except to say they're available here for $5.75, along with their relatives, the Summer Roll ($3.50, with shrimp and pork), and the Garden Roll ($3.50, with tofu, potato, carrots and mint leaves).
FOR a small-size eatery, Green Papaya Cafe goes far beyond the usual hole-in-the-wall offering of the Rice Noodle dishes and the Vietnamese Beef Noodle Soup, pho. (This is where the scandalous beef balls are mentioned.) A large bowl of the soup, also stocked with bean sprouts, basil and a touch of lime, runs $5.75, and could easily feed two.There are several entree dishes geared toward the local experience, big on meat and seafood plates, with portions sized for family-style dining.
If you're interested in feeding, no stuffing, only yourself, start with the Combination Rice Plates. On plate No. 52 ($6.25), familiar sweetened teriyaki-style Shortribs are paired with Lemon Grass Chicken, each piece tender and gristle free. The touch of lemongrass is light enough to be suitable for those who never tried the citrusy herb before. You'll probably taste more garlic than lemon grass.
If it's just garlic you like, it's well-represented in dishes of Garlic Chicken ($5.95) and Garlic Shrimp ($7.50).
Shrimp Tempura ($7.50 for eight pieces) is served with a twist here, deep-fried in a fluffy, basil-flecked batter.
There are a few token Italian-style pasta dishes, but a sampling of Linguine with Clams ($5.95) with minced, canned specimens on top, showed this is not their strong point. Stick to the Vietnamese specialties.
The owner is quite nice, going out of her way to please guests, whether the way to their hearts is to whip up a glass of fresh orange juice, steer them to just the right dinner selections, or explain the makings of a spring roll, for the umpteenth time.
Green Papaya Cafe: Kingsgate Plaza, 555 N. King St. #108Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday
Prices: About $15 to $20 for two for lunch or dinner; free area delivery with a minimum order of $20 or more
Call: 841-6988
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