What comes and goes in fashion seems to hold true for restaurants, too. Thus Kenny's Coffee House (sing it now, "at the Kam Shopping Center in Kaliheeeee") is trying on a few new menu items. Oddly enough, some of those items reflect a '70s flair, i.e. Shrimp Scampi. But hey, that makes Kenny's totally hip to the retro-a-go-go '90s. And as general manager Warren Matsunaga explains about the eatery's roots, "We don't want to get away from it, but more into it."
Kenny's is the quintessential local restaurant, a place to hang out, drink coffee, shoot the breeze, since 1965. The coffee house has managed to evolve, without losing sight of its no-nonsense family and community-sensitive dining traditions. It ain't haute, but customers appreciate what is honest, homespun fare.
The newest hit is Kenny's fresh fish, which is caught the eco-conscious way on hook and line. Some are fish only a local could love, such as the pungent opelu and taape, but there has been no shortage of customers. The first two weeks were sellouts.
There is one special daily. This may be fried akule, opelu, taape, aweoweo, nabeta or mamo; or mempachi, moana, mullet, to'au, a'awa or farmed moi prepared nitsuke-style. I sampled the nitsuke-style moi ($12.95), or Pacific threadfin, steamed and served with a sweetened soy, ginger and green onion sauce. The tender, juicy white fish is similar in texture to mullet.
Neither do they skimp on hamburger-filled Stuffed Cabbage ($8.25), two hefty rolls baked in a light tomato-based Spanish Sauce.
These and other lunch and dinner entrees, such as the popular fried Korean Style Chicken ($7.95) and Baked Shortribs ($8.50) are served with a choice of rice, whipped potatoes or French fries, hot vegetables and a roll. Since Kenny's isn't exactly an a la carte sort of place, hungry types might go for the complete meal, which means adding $1.95 for a choice of soup or salad, dessert and a choice of a soft drink, coffee or tea.
Old-timers still swear by Kenny's Chinese Chicken Salad ($6.75), which is sculptural in dimension, piled as high as a bee-hive hairdo. And they also make a decent burger ($5.25 for supreme with fries and tossed salad - try the sweetened vinegar and oil). The burger is more dense than I like, but tasty and reminiscent of meatloaf with its herbed flavor.
Kenny's makes a stab at lighter dining by offering a fresh, though dry, roast Turkey Sandwich ($6.50) and a baked Eggplant Sandwich, both on rye with Swiss cheese, plenty of fresh sprouts, and accompanied with a crunchy pickle.
Desserts might be considered old fashion - hot fudge sundaes ($2.75), banana splits ($2.99), pie ala mode ($2.50). But they're also classics; you really can't go wrong with a classic.
Where: 1620 N. School St. (The fresh fish menu starts Monday at the Kaneohe location, 46-023 Kamehameha Highway. Call 236-1464.)
Hours: Breakfast 6 to 11 a.m.; lunch and dinner 11 a.m. to close
Prices: About $15 to $25 for two
Call: 841-0931
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