An albatross nests with her chick on Midway atoll.
Photo by Barbara Maxfield, special to the Star-Bulletin
Nature lovers, sport fishermen, historians, military veterans, biologists, divers and even the homesick and curious will begin visiting Midway when the national wildlife refuge opens to the public Sunday.
"The idea is to let tourist dollars keep Midway open instead of tax dollars," said Dent Thompson of Midway Phoenix Corp., hired to transport visitors to the remote atoll and oversee three companies offering tour packages there.
An albatross nests with her chick on Midway atoll.
Photo by Barbara Maxfield, special to the Star-Bulletin
The concept could have applications elsewhere, said agency spokeswoman Barbara Maxfield. "We want to get a little experience before we consider doing this on another island as well," she said, "but Midway was just such a perfect opportunity."
For starters, it had major tourist attractions. Between November and July, it is alive with courting, mating and nesting albatrosses and their young, and huge numbers of other birds that frequent the 1,600-acre atoll.
"We've had an overwhelming response," said Brigit Winning, director of the San Francisco-based Oceanic Society Expeditions, chosen to offer land tours. "They see this as someplace closer to home than Galapagos to see magnificent wildlife."
Visitors can work with biologists on long-term research projects, Winning said.
Veterans and their families are also keen to visit the atoll, staging area of a decisive World War II battle. Thompson said many people who lived on Midway during the war have long wanted to revisit their childhood home.
The atoll, surrounded by a turquoise lagoon and deep waters beyond the reef, is a draw for divers and fishermen, too. John Bone of Georgia-based Midway Sport Fishing Inc. said he's had inquiries from world record-hunters "because there are some very big fish up by that atoll. They're looking to set light-tackle records."
Waters are frequented by marlin, swordfish, giant trevally, tuna, wahoo and mahi. It's primarily catch and release, Bone said, although some fish may be kept and consumed on the atoll.
Bone's company is one of two sport fishing firms allowed to operate in a Fish and Wildlife game management area, and he's anxious to be a good neighbor. "We saw this as an opportunity to give sport fishing a better image and show that it can operate within a wildlife refuge and won't hurt the fishery," he said.
The Navy leaves a runway, paved roads, running water, electricity and bachelor officers quarters that are being renovated into visitor lodging. Meals will be served in a mess hall, although Thompson plans to develop a fine restaurant.
Now he's juggling the "nightmare logistics" of getting materials and supplies to an atoll 1,200 miles from the nearest land mass and dealing with construction schedules defined by the nesting season.
"The trick to Midway without a doubt is communications and supply," Thompson said. His firm has invested about $1 million in a cellular phone system, and he's ordering barge deliveries six months ahead. The supply lag will ease when the twice-weekly, four-hour visitor flights from Lihue begin Sunday.
Flights will increase next July 1, when the Navy leaves and Midway Phoenix can expand from 30 to 100 visitors per day.
Thompson plans to retain the civilian crew running Midway, eventually expanding the work force to 175 to 225.
Thompson said he's looking at the next 10 months operation. "We're not trying to hammer every seat from day one," he said. "We went into this thing expecting to lose money for many years."
Tours are being offered by:
Oceanic Society Expeditions: Guided tours at $1,250 for seven nights, $750 for four nights and $600 for three nights, including lodging and meals. Airfare is $1,000. Call 800-326-7491.