Volunteers such as Jan Maunakea will happily put in an 18-hour day Saturday, serving up chicken long rice and other ono authentic lu'au dishes. Photo by Craig Kojima, Star-Bulletin



It's time for the
Big, Big Lu'au

Preparing the food for the annual
benefit lu'au at Kaumakapili Church
takes an effort that is best described
as miraculous

By Catherine Kekoa Enomoto
Star-Bulletin



IT'S not exactly the miracle of the loaves and fishes, but the numbers sound pretty impressive nonetheless:

All to make the chicken long rice for Saturday's 25th annual benefit lu'au at Kaumakapili Church.

The biggest challenge is "cooking this big amount of food," said Ruby Kaneao, a 35-year congregation member whose family underpins the chicken long rice crew. "We start preparing for takeouts about 6 a.m. The first gas flame goes on about 8:30 a.m. and we are cooking continuously until we get through serving about 6:30 p.m.

"That morning I get up at 4:30 and rush to Honolulu Poi Co. to pick up the balance of our poi; that last batch is 250 pounds. I bring it to the church and from that time I tell my husband to start cooking up the long rice, heat the broth and get things ready."

The psalms, notwithstanding, the book/verse/line on the rest of the lu'au includes:

The Kaumakapili Church event is "pretty much" a genuine lu'au, said Henry Maunakea, who chaired the first lu'au a quarter century ago when it was six times smaller. "The food is not prepared in the old style, but we still have the same ingredients. It's genuine in that we create an atmosphere of warmth and aloha. For that we don't put on a show; it's the real thing.

"There's a buffet when people come in, then waitresses serve the seconds. For $15, sit-down diners can eat all they want. That's why locals like to come. At both sittings people can eat all they want."

He added that ticket holders line up from 11 a.m. for some 2,000 takeout lu'au meals. They pack the popular boxed repasts off to beaches, to birthday parties, to senior citizens homes or to that day's Prince Lot Hula Festival in Moanalua.

That morning I get up at 4:30 and rush to the Honolulu Poi Co. to pick up the balance of our poi; that last batch is 250 pounds. I bring it to the church and from that time I tell my husband to start cooking up the long rice, heat the broth and get things ready.

Maunakea said proceeds from this year's lu'au will start a sanctuary-repair fund. The congregation estimated that renovations will total $1.3 million for the 85-year-old church, which has been designated a state historical site.

But, the Kaumakapili Church lu'au is not about money, he stressed. It's about working together and renewing Hawaiian spirituality.

"If we give of our best to be in fellowship with Him (God), then success will come on its own," said Maunakea, whose daughter-in-law Jan Lakalo Maunakea is overall lu'au chair.

Meanwhile, Kaneao, 56, anticipates the 18 hours on her feet Saturday: "Oh yes, I enjoy doing it. Then, we'll have a year's time to rest, when we forget about the aches and pains and we're eager to start the next year," she laughed.

She said she began volunteering for the lu'au on small committees, then learned how to prepare the chicken long rice from kupuna (elder) Elizabeth A'arona, and learned the overall lu'au operation from Uncle Kenny Hohu. Both church elders since have passed away, and Kaneao and her husband David are passing on their own knowledge to their daughter Darilyn Pestano and their grandson Hi'ilei Naauao. All are on the long rice squad.

"We can't do it without everyone's help," Kaneao said.

The handed-down recipe follows. Kaneao scaled down the church-lu'au version - from that first loaves-and-fishes crowd of 500 people 25 years ago - to feed a family of eight.


Kaumakapili Church Chicken Long Rice

(After the original recipe by kupuna Elizabeth Aarona;
courtesy of Ruby Kaneao of Kaneohe)

4 packages (2 ounces each) long rice
2-1/2 pounds chicken thighs
1/2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and crushed
Hawaiian sea salt to taste
1/2 cup chopped green onion

Soak long rice in water to cover until soft, about 3 hours. Cut long rice into 3-inch or other desired lengths.

In a 10-quart pot, place chicken and ginger, and add water to cover (should fill pot about 1/2 to 3/4 full). Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer covered until tender, about 1 to 1-1/2 hours.

Remove chicken to a plate and reserve broth. Remove skin and bones from chicken; discard skin and bones. Use a pair of tongs to shred chicken meat. Skim fat from broth.

Return chicken to broth along with long rice. Bring mixture to a boil, reduce heat and simmer covered for 1 hour or until long rice is hot and translucent.

Option: To speed total cooking time, while you are cooking chicken, cook long rice in water to cover for 30 minutes or until half-cooked. Proceed with recipe, except cook chicken and long rice together only 30 minutes or until long rice is hot and translucent.

Garnish with green onions.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.


Approximate nutritional analysis per serving, based on 6 servings and 1 teaspoon total added Hawaiian sea salt: 315 calories, at least 6 grams total fat, at least 1.5 grams saturated fat, 125 milligrams cholesterol, 410 milligrams sodium.*

The facts

What: Kaumakapili Church lu'au
When: 12:30 p.m. seating for all-you-can-eat, sit-down meal; 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. takeout boxes available; 5:30 p.m. seating sold out.
Where: 766 N. King St. at Palama Street
Cost: $13 takeout; $15 sit-down
Call: 845-0908 or 261-4336




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