The Weekly Eater

By Nadine Kam
Star-Bulletin

Thursday, July 4, 1996


Finally, Indonesian fare gets real

ONE of the first things I did at Bali Indonesia is whine about the poor "Indonesian" fare served at another restaurant. I never wasted any ink on it, hoping it would just go away. It did.

"Oh yes," said our host. "I heard about that one. So sorry."

It's been said that the people of Indonesia - comprising more than 13,000 islands stretching 3,200 miles east to west from Irian Jaya to Sumatra - come from a culture of kindness, and I felt this was confirmed by the exchange. Who else would apologize for a grievance he didn't commit? Then he proceeded to right the wrong by putting authentic fare on the table, in all its aromatic splendor.

Bali Indonesia opened a month ago and is already a hit with the Southeast Asian crowd, in spite of its far-from-hip, generic appearance. Many show up to sample the Dutch-inspired, rice-centered feast of many dishes called "rijsttafel" or "rice table" ($24.95 per person for a minimum of two).

If that's too much to spend, it's easy to put together an intimate rijstaffel of your own. Local families do it all the time by putting rice on the table, surrounded by a few main dishes. At home, those dishes might be shoyu chicken or beef stew, and vegetables. At Bali Indonesia, the dishes bear exotic names such as Cumi Bakar (BBQ Calamari in sweet soy sauce, $8.95) and Ayam Goreng Kuning (Fried Curry Chicken, $8.25).

BALI Indonesia's menu is lengthy, taking double time to peruse because we also had to read the descriptions while tripping over unfamiliar syllables.





In time, we started with the familiar, the satays. A platter of 10 sticks - featuring marinated, grilled pork, chicken, lamb, shrimp and beef, served with a sweet-and-spicy peanut sauce - is $14.95. Smaller orders of five satay sticks range from$7.50 for chicken to $8.95 for shrimp.

Among other appetizers, Martabak Telor ($5.25) offers a novel presentation of plain old corned beef. The meat is cooked with onions and eggs, then sandwiched between sheets of crispy, phyllo-like pastry and cut into bite-size squares.

Spring Rolls ($4.95) are stuffed with chicken, fried tofu, carrots, bamboo shoots and green onions, and are served two per order. Shrimp crackers ($2) are denser and thicker than the snack food we know as shrimp chips.

Although prices are comparable to that of Chinese and Thai restaurants, I found that Bali Indonesia portions are small, such that the approximate one dish per person guideline for Chinese meals doesn't apply here. While four can easily dine on four or five entrees plus rice at a Chinese restaurant, here, three people might feel hungry after devouring eight dishes plus dessert.

Rendang ($8.95), for instance, is a wonderful dish of spicy curry beef - light because it's made with fresh coconut milk, rather than the thick canned stuff - but it offered only six 1-inch chunks of meat.

Also skimpy was Nasi Rames ($7.95), a rice plate that offered one piece each of Fried Curry Chicken, Spicy Beef, a Hard-Boiled Egg, plus a handful of Crispy Fried Anchovies and a sprinkling of Shrimp Crackers. This would not even fill a child.

Of course you can't leave without trying the stink beans, or pete, which we tasted in an order of Shrimp in Spicy Chili Sauce ($9.75). The beans lend a musty and slightly bitter taste to dishes. If you like them, consider yourself native.



Bali Indonesia

Address: 1901 Kapiolani Blvd. Suite 110
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays
Prices: About $30 to $35 for two
Call: 949-BALI (2254)


Nadine Kam's restaurant reviews run on Thursdays. Reviews are conducted anonymously and paid for by the Star-Bulletin. Star ratings are based on comparisons of similar restaurants:

- excellent;
- very good, exceeds expectations;
- average;
- below average.

To recommend a restaurant, write: The Weekly Eater, P.O. Box 3080, Honolulu, Hawaii 96802. Or send e-mail to features@starbulletin.com




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